Yesterday we tried to reach Camp 2 but the snow conditions were too bad and we decided to stay at Camp 1 and come back to Advanced Base Camp. Some teams decided to go up despite the conditions, and there were a few avalanches at 6700m. Lukily no-one got hurt and we are very glad that the teams are safe back at camp.
This monsoon seems very persistent and strong! Three weather forecasts agree that the monsoon precipitation will end during the next few days, then the winds will pick up. We hope to use the windy days to reach Camp 2, sleep there and come back down to Advanced Base Camp and finish our acclimatization process.
With these poor weather conditions, we now expect to push for the summit on the 4th of October. But it all depends on weather. It snows every day lately and it’s very hard to keep stuff dry even inside the tent.
On the bright side of things, we ended up spending 3 nights at 6400m and are super acclimatized and ready for the push to 7100m! At ABC we try to keep ourselves busy although there isn’t too much to do when it’s snowing. Calin and I also improved our timing to Camp 1 and back!
More news soon…